![]() The Andromeda Galaxy in this image is not more than a smudge.Īfter stacking and playing with levels and curves, the galaxy begins to reveal itself.Īfter color balancing, noise reduction, sharpening, evening out the background, and flipping the image 180 degrees for aesthetics, it comes out pretty well. When you first open an astrophoto, even if it has been stacked, the dynamic range is very low. It also handles dark, light, and bias frames, a method astrophotographers use to get the cleanest images possible. Affinity Photo 2 will stack 32-, 16- or 8-bit images and let you adjust levels and curves. With Affinity Photo 2, you select a stack of images, set a method of combining images to optimize image parameters, then click "stack," and you'll have a single image. ![]() Stacking increases signal and reduces noise, and if you use features like Sigma Clip when stacking, it will remove airplane and satellite trails automatically. Among its many astrophotography skills is the aforementioned stacking of FITS files. ![]() Now on a holiday sale for $40.99, Affinity Photo 2 does a lot of things good regular editing software does, and many prefer it to Photoshop. When you open Affinity Photo 2 (the latest version, but Affinity Photo does this as well), there's a little hint in the file menu that this app handles astrophotos. All three run on Macs and Windows OS.Ībout a year ago, Affinity Photo quietly added the ability to handle FITS files, and it does it with aplomb. There are some powerful tools out there for astro images, like Pixinsight, Siril and the Astro Pixel Processor. Photoshop won't natively deal with astro camera image files, which are in the FITS format. I must confess, most solutions I found were Windows related, I am on Catalina.Most astrophotographers need special software tools to process their images. I tried everything I found in the net, but nothing helped. However, I wished I could make the Topas Denoise AI as Filter Plugin running. A little bit sharpness is lost, but you aware this only at 200% magnification pixel peeping level. However, the Noise Reduction life filer has yet always solved the problem. To answer our question: I'm applying it to a single exposure. ![]() Hey, Ritson, so many thanks for reply and all your hints, everything helps. With JPEGs however, there's typically some in-camera noise reduction that has already been applied, so I would avoid applying more noise reduction (although every camera is different, so always try for yourself!). You may notice on the HDR Merge dialog there's an option for noise reduction–this is typically recommended when merging RAW images, so perhaps ensure this is enabled if that's what you are doing. If that's the case, have you tried the Clarity filter instead? It's not quite the same effect, but might be suitable for your requirements. You can use the destructive version (Filters>Sharpen>Clarity) which will let you apply it quite aggressively, or you can use it non-destructively (Layer>New Live Filter Layer>Sharpen>Clarity) which will apply it dynamically at the expense of overall strength (the effect will be less aggressive). If you're tone mapping using single images it would make more sense that local contrast especially would bring out noise. Hey Rick, it's worth asking whether you are applying tone mapping following on from an HDR merge, or whether you're just applying it to single exposure images? A resultant HDR merge will typically be much cleaner (as it's equalising then merging exposures based on the most detailed pixel information), I'd be surprised if you were getting very noisy results from a bracketed set of images. If possible, it would be very welcome if that could be reduced in future versions. It has only one thing to be complained, and that's the noise introduction. Affinity Photo's Tone Map is awesome good and I use it on each of my landscape images.
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